U.S. fisheries are among the largest and most sustainable in the world, thanks to strong science and a dynamic management process. Just as culinary experts transform sustainable ingredients into delicious dishes, fisheries management councils use NOAA science to develop sound fisheries management policies.
Locally sourced seafood restaurants are keenly aware of the important role fisheries science plays in their ability to fill our plates without depleting our ocean. That’s why a New England-based seafood restaurant group, Row 34, brought their staff on an educational visit to NOAA’s Woods Hole Lab in Massachusetts in September.
"Row 34 is, and always will be, about getting our teams and our guests as close to the source of where our food comes from as possible,” shared co-owner Shore Gregory. “Getting a behind-the-scenes look at the NOAA operations in Woods Hole helped deepen our understanding of the complexities of our oceans and how we can continue to be great stewards.”
Where It All Began
The Woods Hole Laboratory, founded in the summer of 1871, is the oldest marine research station in the United States. It’s the original site of the U.S. Commission on Fish and Fisheries, a precursor agency to both NOAA Fisheries and the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. The nation’s first U.S. Fish Commissioner, Spencer Baird, established the original research station on Little Harbor. Baird and his team investigated the alarming decline in local fisheries—particularly scup, tautog, and sea bass in the waters of Vineyard Sound. They worked closely with commercial fishermen to understand their challenges and develop sustainable solutions. His broader mission was to support fisheries research, educate the public about marine life and marine science, and establish meaningful connections to working waterfronts. It carries on through NOAA Fisheries’ mission and priorities today.
History of NOAA Fisheries in the Northeast
An Ocean of Knowledge at the Woods Hole Science Aquarium
Along with the nation's first fisheries laboratory, Spencer Baird established an aquarium that evolved into today’s Woods Hole Science Aquarium—the nation’s oldest public aquarium. Baird believed it was important to explain what public support for government marine research was achieving, and to showcase its contribution to sustainable fisheries and conservation. Now well into its second century, the aquarium features a collection of sea life that can be found in local waters. Visitors can get a close-up introduction to familiar commercial and recreational fishing species like cod, flounder, and striped bass. They can also view tropical fish that ride the Gulf Stream into Northeast waters every summer.
Woods Hole Science Aquarium photos
Fine Dining for Aquarium Residents
Row 34 got a glimpse into a new kind of “food critic” with their visit to the aquarium’s prep kitchen. There, biologists use ecological monitoring data to fine-tune the aquarium’s feeding practices. NOAA scientists have examined the stomach contents of commercially and ecologically important fish species for decades. Each year seagoing staff catalog more than 10,000 stomach records. Their Food Habits Database provides important snapshots of each species’ diet over time, allowing the aquarium to tailor meals to meet the specific nutritional needs of each species.
Aquarium meals are prepared using restaurant-grade ingredients such as capelin, herring, and nori (seaweed) from local seafood suppliers. Their carefully crafted menus keep aquarium residents happy and healthy, and they even make adjustments to suit the preferences of picky eaters. “It was fascinating to see the care that goes into providing quality sustenance for the different sea creatures at the aquarium,” shared Meg Fuchs, Row 34 Director of Operations. “Their team takes great pride in providing food to fit each animals' needs, as well as preferences. It's really hospitality on display as much as it is a science.”
Feeding fish at the Woods Hole Science Aquarium
Eavesdropping on Ocean Soundscapes
As part of their aquarium visit, NOAA scientists discussed their interactive ocean soundscapes exhibit with Row 34. Marine mammals, fish, and invertebrates rely on sound for navigation, communication, and survival. Acousticians Annabel Westell and Rochelle Gordon demonstrated how we use underwater microphones, called hydrophones, to record sounds underwater. The hydrophones can cover time periods from hours to years, and span distances from a few kilometers to ocean-wide. Visitors can listen to these recordings—both natural and human-made—while learning about how we use the data to identify where and when different species are present. This helps us protect our marine populations with measures such as dynamic management areas and vessel slow-zones.
Play marine mammal vocalizations in Sound Circle
A Lesson in Fish Aging
Tucked inside a quaint seaside cottage that some might mistake for a private residence is the Northeast Fisheries Science Center’s Age and Growth Lab. When not out at sea on fisheries surveys, scientists spend their days in the lab examining otoliths—tiny ear stones—found in the inner ear of fish and other vertebrates. Much like tree rings, otoliths grow in alternating layers of opaque and translucent rings that represent seasonal changes in growth. By counting these rings, scientists can estimate the age and growth rates of various fish and shellfish species. These data are vital for managing fisheries sustainably, understanding population health, and informing catch limits.
The lab’s age and growth studies began in 1965 with haddock and yellowtail. Since then, the program has expanded to include more than 20 species. Each year the team analyzes around 60,000 samples from specimens collected on NOAA surveys and by commercial fishing partners. We use the data to build mathematical models of fish populations. These models help us estimate the total number of fish in a stock, predict the effects of fishing, and assess mortality rates from both fishing and natural causes. This allows managers to maintain an accurate understanding of commercially important stocks like Atlantic cod, haddock, and black sea bass, which are frequently featured on Row 34’s menu. They also inform continued sustainable management amid environmental changes.
“The otolith growth studies were something I had never heard of. The fact that they've been able to track various fish species based on growth rings is incredible,” stated Suzanne Hays Bailey, Row 34’s Beverage Director & Assistant Director of Operations.
Age and growth studies in the Northeast
Demonstrating Progress with On-Demand Fishing Gear
Row 34’s final stop was a hands-on demonstration of on-demand fishing gear from NOAA’s protected species gear research team. NOAA is partnering with fishermen across five states to develop innovative on-demand, or “ropeless,” fishing gear that uses significantly less rope than traditional fishing gear. These systems are being developed to protect endangered whales and sea turtles from entanglement in fishing gear, while keeping fishermen on the water.
To locate and retrieve gear, traditional methods tether gear to a rope attached to a buoy at the water's surface. On-demand gear technology employs surface buoy and line alternatives including pop-up buoys, inflatable lift bags, and buoyant spools. The lifting devices are activated by a signal from the surface to bring the fishing gear up from the ocean floor. This technology is being tested in various fisheries, including those in seasonally closed areas, to assess and refine its effectiveness.
During the demonstration, Row 34 learned how to use on-demand gear and how this technology continues to evolve with the help of the industry. Testing gear with fishermen under actual fishing conditions is key to developing modifications that can reduce entanglements without significant loss of the targeted catch. Around 50 fishermen from three fisheries are actively participating in gear trials, customizing equipment to meet their needs, and experimenting with gear-tracking apps. “My cousin has been working with Maine to do some trials of the new gear, and having the industry participate in the process is an important first step,” said Row 34 co-owner Chef Jeremy Sewall. His family has been lobstering in Southern Maine since the 1940’s. “There have certainly been a lot of changes in the industry but this potential change is a big one for generational lobstermen,” Chef Sewall continued. “I think having a better understanding of the process, good training and financial support are the only ways to move this forward.”
As these systems are refined to be more user-friendly and effective, on-demand gear is a promising step toward ensuring the continued availability of seafood while supporting the fishing industry and coastal communities.
Developing viable on-demand gear systems
Row 34 staff look forward to maintaining connections with the science behind sustainable seafood. “The fact that this important work is happening in our backyard and our teams can see it first hand is incredible,” said Gregory. Not everyone has the opportunity to visit NOAA labs in person, but there are still plenty of ways to learn and engage. You can educate yourself by exploring our sustainable seafood species profiles, get some dinner inspiration with our seafood recipes, and meet more faces of sustainable seafood. Whether you’re exploring from home or in the field, these resources are always within reach.
